This FAQ addresses issues of all stages of fencing equipment ownership. Answers reflect the personal experience of our armourer, so may be incomplete, biased and/or wrong, but if you don't know anything better, then they will hopefully be useful. All suggestions for additions or changes are welcomed.
The simple answer is: very little. The slightly longer answer is that we have some common items in stock - in particular bodywires, gloves, tips, grub screws and allen keys. Then, various people have second-hand stuff for sale. Some in-stock and 2nd-hand items are listed here.
Note that the thoroughness/anal-retentiveness of WCs is approximately inversely proportional to the size and importance of the competition.
This includes sabre mask bibs and sabre gloves. The resistance between all points on the item must be less than 5 ohms. Common problems areas are around the neck and under the arm pits.
Structural integrity is the key here. Visual inspection is usually all that happens, with perhaps some prodding around the edges of the front mesh to check the fabric around the edge is glued down sufficiently. The mesh should not have any obvious dents, bibs should be tear-free and a head-strap at the back is also required (but not always enforced). If the weapons checker is worried (and well equipped) they may perform a punch test to see if a probe can be forced through the mesh. You can ask that this be done on the side of the mask - of course, if there is a problem, I bet you'd like to find out that way than on the piste.
Commonly only foil body wires will be checked, since faulty éepé bodywires only disadvantage their owners. The resistance of each wire should be less than 1 ohm. Sabre mask wires also need to pass this requirement.
These may not be checked at all in small competitions as all the checking is done on the piste. If they are examined, then it is most likely for FIE stamps on the blades and sufficient insulation around any wires inside the guard. Occasionally, the insulation of the handles of foils will also be examined, but this should not be necessary with new scoring boxes.
Sweat kills lamés. Unfortunately, the wearing of lamés is highly correlated with sweating. The worst thing you can do is the bundle your lamé into a soggy ball after taking it off and shove it into your bag. If you must take it away immediately, then turn the lamé inside out so that the sweatiest bits (inside) don't touch the important bits (outside) before wrapping up and putting in a bag. The best option is to take your lamé into the shower with you after fencing and give it a quick soap and rinse, then let it drip dry (preferably in light sun). With this treatment a decent lamé should last many years.